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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Weston
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6100. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How so? I checked all the links and they work fine.

EDIT: Sometimes the page just doesn't show up. Crappy webhosting I guess.
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infamous360
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6101. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks pretty good... i might make a pair if i dont get sharks. how much did it cost you for both?
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spritemanjc
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6102. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lately ive been trying to make the "matrix sensors" but for some reason they just rapidfire a lot. Im using Pan head phillips #10x1 screws and a 1/4 mouse pad and i even use weatherstripping on the sides but the panel is too sensitive. any ideas?


Shot at 2007-07-03
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Weston
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6103. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sprite: Get double-sided tape and cardboard from a cereal box. Cut out small rectangles in the cardboard and attach the tape to it. Put each rectangle piece between the top mending bracket and the opposing mousepad on the bottom bracket. Each rectangle will act as a spacer and reduce the autofire problem.

infamous: About $170 for the newest pad.
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ChilliumBromide
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6104. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, man. Anyone have a link for matrlx's pad, or more specifically, a good tutorial for the sensors?
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spritemanjc
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6105. PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weston wrote:
sprite: Get double-sided tape and cardboard from a cereal box. Cut out small rectangles in the cardboard and attach the tape to it. Put each rectangle piece between the top mending bracket and the opposing mousepad on the bottom bracket. Each rectangle will act as a spacer and reduce the autofire problem.


Thanks that worked.

SoymilkCharlie wrote:

Cool, man. Anyone have a link for matrlx's pad, or more specifically, a good tutorial for the sensors?


I made a crappy tutorial on paint just now. This is how i made mine not sure if matrix has a different approach.


Shot at 2007-07-04

First cut two pieces of mousepad that will cover the length of the mending bracket i think its like 1/4 of an inch not entirely sure atm.

Tape both of the pieces or glue them to the mending bracket.

Put in both screws on each side and take both mending brackets and sandwich them together to see if it compresses alright and if the screws arent touching the entire time. If they are try using cardboard from a cereal box as a spacer.

Cut two long strips of electrical/duct tape and wrap it around the mending
bracket sandwich you just made. they should wrap around enough so that the mending bracket isnt too tight when you tape it up.

Place the active wire below the mending bracket and hold it there. Screw down the mending bracket.

Take a small strip of electrical tape and stick the ground wire on the top plate.

Repeat for all the other sensors.

That's about it. Good luck.

Ill post pics of my pad as soon as its 100% done.

nerd.gif
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Hertigen
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6106. PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went to some company specialized in Plexiglas, and when I told them I was looking for something to be jumped on, they were like, "huh?" They told me, I shouldn't risk getting plexiglas because it's so insanely expensive and will probably break. nor polycarbonate (lexan) (which is btw, even more expensive).

so uh... I don't really know what to think about this. I could just go with wood, but since I'd like to add lights that's a little bit annoying. But most of you guys have built your arrow panels with plexiglas, right?

btw, neat, sprite E1.gif
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Tenchi50
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6107. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha

someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe most everyone uses lexan, maybe some people still use regular acrylic but i doubt it
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Hertigen
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6108. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told by this company, lexan is sturdier than plexiglas but it still kinda bends a bit. Is this ok anyway?
(but this stuff is expensive...like hell.)

I believe I could add a sensor in the center of the arrow well for extra safety?
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spritemanjc
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6109. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hertigen wrote:
I was told by this company, lexan is sturdier than plexiglas but it still kinda bends a bit. Is this ok anyway?
(but this stuff is expensive...like hell.)

I believe I could add a sensor in the center of the arrow well for extra safety?


You could just add a small wooden block with some weather strip on it in the middle of the well. that would pretty much stop all bending i think.
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Agent
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6110. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL, Cobalt Fluxes use lexan. It will be fine.
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ChilliumBromide
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6111. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tomorrow, when it's light out, I might make a video of myself hitting a 1/4"x11"x11" Lexan panel with a steel bat (I'm kind of hesitant to really push the strength of the Lexan panels I have because they cost about $8 each, and, while I know that can stand up to being stomped on with a couple hundred pounds of force, I don't know how well they'd hold up to something like a bat, sledgehammer, et cetera). Although I think the fact that 3/8" Lexan is enough to stop most bullets should be good enough for you.

Sprite, that's a pretty good tutorial you made, but it's not for me; I want a link for my homebrews page on my site. I'd be willing to set up the tutorial there if necessary, but I'd like to have some external link I could use, 'cause I have kind of limited bandwidth, and I'm guessing that would probably get a lot of traffic, you know?


EDIT: Looks like I don't need to make a video after all. This one tells it all.

Other uses of Lexan:
Riot Shields and Visors
Bulletproof Glass
Museum viewing cases
Water bottles (lolol 1/16" Lexan)
CD's
Animal Enclosures
Lenses
Instrument Cases
Basically anything you need to be able to see through that also needs to be effectively indestructible.

Also, you will not experience excessive bending. It takes a phenomenal amount of force to bend polycarbonates any significant amount, and despite the fact that they're mildly ductile, they will most likely not bend noticeably when used in a dance pad application.
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Hertigen
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6112. PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for these explainations E1.gif
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spritemanjc
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6113. PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soymilkcharlie: Just reference this exact page of the topic on you're site, or you could wait for matrix tut which he promised would be up soon.
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Ghettobarney
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6114. PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I really need to know is what size screws I should use for matrix sensors.
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spritemanjc
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6115. PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

{unknown name} wrote:
What I really need to know is what size screws I should use for matrix sensors.


I personally used phillips pan head #10's but as long as it completes the circuit it I dont think it matters what size screw you use.

Here's a vid of my pad in action btw:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYgpEtWdF04
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Ghettobarney
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6116. PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice pad, make a vid of it upclose.
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DMS
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6117. PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, for my birthday I will be getting enough money to build my own metal pad. I plan to use RipTide's design, but with matr1x sensors instead of sheet metal/screws, and I have a few questions.

1. Would it be better to use my old PSX analog controller, or my old soft pad's control box for the circuit board?

2. What's an alternative to the stickied thread on lighting the panels. I am no where near tech savvy enough to do it that way.

3. I want my pad to be as close a replica of an ITG2 dedicab pad, and I know the arrows are less recessed than a DDR machine. How would I go about making it closer to an ITG2 pad, and where could I get the arrow decals?

4. Could I put some kind of feet on the bottom of the pad, like at the arcade, to help replicate the arcade feel, or would it mess it up since the pad base is wood?

5. What is the best way to construct a trick bar, and how difficult would it be to install the buttons for start/select in the bar, instead of the pad?

Thanks in advance.
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ChilliumBromide
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6118. PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. The softpad chip would be better. Many PSX controllers have an axis programming that doesn't allow opposite D-Pad buttons to be pressed.

2. Wire up seperate circuits for the lights and the button. If you do this, I'd suggest making 8 sensors; 4 in the corners and 4 on the edges. Wire up 3 to the lights and 5 to the button.

3. Simply use parts with different dimensions. The recession on an ITG cab is 1/16" IIRC. Make sure to consider the thickness of the sheet metal when getting your materials.

4. You can buy the feet at Channelbeat or Benson. Buy 1 for the center of the pad if you're worried about the base cracking.

5. Probably the best bet would be to order on of those bars used for locking up your bicycle. I know for a fact that those can handle a few hundred pounds. However, if you're exceptionally tall, it may be hard to find one of the right height, and I don't know how expensive they are. As an alternative, you could use PVC pipe, fence post component, solid steel bars if you have welding skills, or really anything else long, hard, and round that you can cut to size and make a bar-shaped thing out of.

5.1 you may even be able to buy a bar from benson, channelbeat, or andamiro.

5.2 if you use piping to make your bar, it's just a matter of shoving some wires up the pipe, drilling a couple holes in it, wiring up the buttons, then sticking them in their holes.

If any of those answers are unsatisfactory, please modify your questions with more specifics. The more specific you are, the harder it is for us to come up with answers that don't work.

Oh, and a budget would be nice, too. E1.gif
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DMS
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6119. PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, that pretty much answers all I needed to know. Well, except, I am still a bit confused on how to wire everything up inside the pad, as I can't find a really good guide for this.

Also, my budgest is roughly $400, I would say. Maybe a bit less, but definitely over $300.
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