Forums FAQForums FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Login to check your private messagesLogin to check your private messages   LoginLogin 

FAQ about Arcade DDR
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, ... 20, 21, 22  Next  
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> DDR Chit-Chat
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Tomo_kun
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Location: SE-WI.
20. PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update to the 221 pounds thing. that is PER side
_________________

Cutriss wrote:
FLCL, God of Gods wrote:
Uh... so when do we get the porn forum?
If you can't find porn on the Internet, you're not trying.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
21. PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sfetaz wrote:
Great FAQ, I would like to add somethings

In purchasing a machine or upgrade kit, there is 1 more source. Betson Imperial. They are the official konami of america arcade distributer and I have heard have a majority stock in that department. They sell LEGIT machines and upgrade kits. Their machines come in like new condition and run between $8000 and $9000. Usually they have memoryard slots and come direct from Japan. Their Legit Extreme Upgrade kit runs $2000, but their legit 5th mix upgrade kit is only $299. I got a replacement konami rom from them for $65. They are also a sell replacement parts, like official konami sensors, replacement arrows that DO NOT BREAK (Damn channel beat) and a lot of other things. Their sensors used to be about $100 each, now they are $32.95. It should be obvious that they are very expensive, however you can be assured you get great customer service from them and official parts.

(This may be a little confussing) Each sensor for every foot music game (PIU, DDR, Techno Motion) should have two wires. One is for normally open, the other is for common (usually called ground) To get any sensor to work with DDR, you need to first see if the sensor will fit in the connector in the machine. If not, you must get your dead DDR sensor that will fit, splice off the connector with some wire left. Then splice off the connector on the sensor you want to use. Strip off some a little bit of the rubber on all 4 wires (2 for each part) and then twist 1 to 1 together. Then connect your newly made sensor to the machine and test it out. THIS IS NO WHERE NEAR A GOOD WAY TO EXPLAIN IT AND I AM TELLING YOU NOT TO LISTEN TO ME SINCE YOU WILL PROBABLY DO IT WRONG!


Now this is the post I've been waiting for, i'm adding the info in for edit 7.

As for splicing the PIU/TM pads, you're pretty much right on there. it's just a matter of figuring out which is open and which is ground. I've actually found that PIU sensors are even more sensitive than DDR.

Edit: VVV sounds like something on the screens horizontal hold got FUBAR'd. Get those pics in, it could be any number of things, but seeing it will help.


Last edited by Yeehaw McKickass on Sat Jan 10, 2004 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
The Game II
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Mar 2002
Location: Long Beach or Glendale, CA
22. PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a question...

The left and right sides of the screen in our machine curve in (I'll find a picture of it so you can see what I'm talking about).

I was wondering whether anyone knows where I can make the screen adjustments. If someone could answer this question, that would be great! I'm running a tournament in three weeks, and I didn't want the screen to be a problem.

Thanks. E1.gif

--GCII
_________________
www.getyourtournament.com
I'm back with Get Your Tournament!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
Ho-Man
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 04 Mar 2002
Location: Noblesville, IN
23. PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you need to adjust the pincushion setting on the monitor.

The adjustments for the monitor are inside the coin door.

You can see the controls arranged vertically along the right side of the panel in the picture above.

However, I do not believe that there is a pincushion adjustment among those controls. The four in the top section control horizontal and vertical positioning and size. The five below are for brightness, RGB levels, and contrast.

It's possible that those controls might help the problem you're having, but I wouldn't count on it. Sometimes just turning the brightness or contrast down a little will help to clear up some distortion in the picture if the monitor is being driven too high.

There might be some additional controls for the monitor, but they're probably inside the cabinet. Be careful if you're going to muck around with the monitor directly. There's enough voltage in a monitor to knock you out...or even kill you if you're exceptionally unlucky.

If the machine is an older model, the inside of the coin door area won't look like the one in the picture and I don't think there will be any monitor controls there at all.

The one other possibility is that the monitor has been replaced at some point, in which case the controls may be totally different and/or in another location.

Bottom line, it sounds like what you want is a pincushion adjustment, so see if you can find such a thing.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
24. PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like you said HM, it depends on how old/what region your machine is from.

If your machine doesn't look like that picture, you likely have two knobs, a meter and two square buttons without any of the smaller knobs. You'd have to open up your machine and look for a green board (like just about every board in there) that's about 3x5 inches with up to 9 dials on it.

This is a standard monitor control board for just about any cabinet that uses Jamma.

If you do need to actually *TOUCH* the monitor, TURN THE SYSTEM OFF then use an extremely long screwdriver with a plastic or rubber handle to de-energize the sucker. As HM said, they hold an insane amount of voltage and a good amount of amperage (and being shocked isn't fun, I've done it to myself putting a light in a skeeball machine, weird feeling) that will knock you on your buttocks. Also keep yourself grounded, just like if you were working on a computer.

Make sure you have some help if you have to replace the monitor, they're surprisinglly heavy.

I won't be adding this to the FAQ, it's a VERY specific question, and isn't very frequent.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
LouieT
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Location: Visalia, Central CA
25. PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

two knobs, a meter and two square buttons
You mean that thing that looks like an odometer?
What is that for anyways?
_________________
LST
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Ho-Man
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 04 Mar 2002
Location: Noblesville, IN
26. PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the coin counter. It counts the number of coins that the machine has accepted. So in that sense, it is somewhat like the machine's odometer.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website
The Game II
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Mar 2002
Location: Long Beach or Glendale, CA
27. PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ho-Man wrote:
The four in the top section control horizontal and vertical positioning and size.


Yep, that's the adjustment buttons I need. Thanks E1.gif

Yeehaw McKickass wrote:
If you do need to actually *TOUCH* the monitor, TURN THE SYSTEM OFF then use an extremely long screwdriver with a plastic or rubber handle to de-energize the sucker. As HM said, they hold an insane amount of voltage and a good amount of amperage (and being shocked isn't fun, I've done it to myself putting a light in a skeeball machine, weird feeling) that will knock you on your buttocks. Also keep yourself grounded, just like if you were working on a computer.


OK, this I'm curious about, maybe this is more about physics than DDR machines.

We've all heard stories about a dumbass or two that matrix walks, and breaks the screen. Has anyone heard of anyone being shocked pretty bad because their shoe/foot touched the monitor?

--GCII

EDIT: Regarding pad cleaning. What's an estimated time someone has spent cleaning a pad? As in, it hasn't been cleaned in 5 months. I'm figuring that I'm going to spend a good 3 hours the night before my tournament cleaning the pad. I just would like to know how much time I could be spending on it.
_________________
www.getyourtournament.com
I'm back with Get Your Tournament!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
28. PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding your matrix walk thing: whoever did it should be shot on top of being electrocuted. If they managed to crack the monitor, it's possible they could be shocked. not likely with a shoe on though.

As for hte pad cleaning, it'll take me about an hour to give it a thorough cleaning if I don't get interrupted. But that's taking every arrow apart, cleaning, and puttting it back on, on top of vaccuming off the I/O boards in the pad. Sometimes I even seperate the pads to clean out betwen them.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
ollec2004
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 31 Jul 2002
29. PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 10:00 pm    Post subject: Re: FAQ about Arcade DDR Reply with quote

Yeehaw McKickass wrote:
Q: Ok, I know what event mode is, how do I get to it?
A: Like Joint premium, it should be under coin options. This is listed as FREE PLAY on the machine I'm in charge of. While some locations may have it on by accident, this option is genereally only on for tournaments.

Free Play is different from Event Mode. Free play is just like the Arcade version, only you don't have to pay for it. You can still fail and get Extra Stage/Encore Extra Stage.

Event Mode does not fail you no matter what (as stated earlier). Accessing event mode is different. Free play needs to be enabled in coin options. Then, on the exit option on the operator menu (last item, don't remember the exact name), hold down the operator button, then press all three buttons on the 1P side. That'll put you in event mode.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
sfetaz
Vivid Member
Vivid Member


Joined: 02 May 2002
30. PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Betsons website is http://www.betson.com
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Baka of the Orochi
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 26 Jan 2002
Location: Chicago area
31. PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, it's common sense, you NEVER touch the back of an unprotected montior, especially if it's on. That thing will give you one HELL of a tingle, and we're not talking sticking-your-finger-in-a-lightbulb-socket tingle. Except when your manager gets shocked. Then it's just funny.

If your shoe does go through, unless the electricity jumps part your shoe, I doubt you'd have to worry so much about that, rather that worrying about your leg getting caught on the glass that you just shattered.

Cleaning a pad, that varies on how dirty it is, and what materials you have handy. Plus, if you have people helping you, it really speeds up the process (as in, other can help you unscrew, which really cuts down the time).

For event mode, all you need to do is hold the Service credit button (S-Coin) while you hit start to re-enter Game Mode from the Service Menu (with Free Play on of course). Event Mode won't work if Free Play is off (instead, the machine will credit itself). Also, with Event Mode, you cannot access Extra Stage, nor can you enter your initials for Nonstop/Oni modes. You can also reset the game to the title screen at any time by hitting all three buttons on the machine (left+right+start).
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
circfan2
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 24 Dec 2003
Location: Hickory, N.C
32. PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2004 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahhh!!!help!im planing on buying a machine.(cause theres nothing like the arcade machine)can some one link me to a site where konami sells them?one more thing..dose any one know how many watts that stero system is inside of the arcade machine?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
33. PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2004 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Your first question was answered in the faq. (Konami does not sell directly to the states/public)

As for the wattage on the speakers, I'll have to do some digging on that one. Lets just say that with the volume halfway up, you can hear the musc (through several walls) about 5-600 yards away.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
The Game II
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Mar 2002
Location: Long Beach or Glendale, CA
34. PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2004 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaning the I/O boards...when is this necessary, or is it? Is this something I have to worry about when cleaning out the pads for a tournament? How much does this affect player's performances?

Thanks.

--GCII
_________________
www.getyourtournament.com
I'm back with Get Your Tournament!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
35. PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2004 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the I/O boards will get dirty at about the same rate as any given arrow. If there's a crapload of dust, it might cause some problems, but it's more of a cleanliness thing.

Just pop em open when you clean out the arrows.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
The Game II
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Mar 2002
Location: Long Beach or Glendale, CA
36. PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The local arcade has an old cabinet which has the two nobs and buttons.

Yeehaw McKickass wrote:
If your machine doesn't look like that picture, you likely have two knobs, a meter and two square buttons without any of the smaller knobs. You'd have to open up your machine and look for a green board (like just about every board in there) that's about 3x5 inches with up to 9 dials on it.

This is a standard monitor control board for just about any cabinet that uses Jamma.


Just making sure...When you mean open up the machine, I assume you mean taking off window face of the machine, thus exposing the monitor. Are the monitor controls below the monitor, or am I totally off?

Thanks again.

--GCII
_________________
www.getyourtournament.com
I'm back with Get Your Tournament!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
Ho-Man
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 04 Mar 2002
Location: Noblesville, IN
37. PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2004 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most likely you would access such things through the access panel on the rear of the machine and not by taking off the front glass. Honestly, I don't know why you'd ever take the front glass off unless you were going to replace it.

You'd be looking for a board that has lots of tiny little pots (or knobs) on it just like the ones you can see on the right hand side of the picture several posts above.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website
Damage
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 21 Jan 2004
Location: Dublin, GA
38. PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2004 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got done cleaning our pads for the first time in at LEAST6 months and it took about 3 hours total time. Here is the pattern I used and it worked fairly well.

Clean them one side at a time. Take the center plate off, vacuum along the edges of the brace under that so you can see the 4 smaller screws holding it down, then take that plate off and vacuum the well under that and the insides of the tubular steel on that brace. Put the brace back in but don't put the plate back on.

From there I moved to the right arrow, took it off and cleaned the backside of the arrow with windex. Before you vacuum the arrow well out, check for screws that have vibrated out of the L bracket on the sensor/loose screws in the same and re-attach/tighten said screws. The screw assembly that goes into the L bracket consists of the screw, a bushing, and a washer.

Vacuum the inside of the well and lightly run a cloth over the neon to clean the dust off them. Vacuum between the plastic square shield and the well walls, then around the sensors. I found a jewelers screwdriver was the perfect size to run between the sensor and the wall to loosen up the dirt there.

Once this is done, leave the arrow off and move to the down right plate and repeat the steps for the center plate. Then to the down arrow and repeat the steps for the right arrow.

Once the right and down arrows are done, then I went ahead and put the covering plate on the down left corner. Work your way around in a clockwise direction replacing arrows and plates as you finish the bordering squares.

I left the center cover plate off until last as it made it easier to get the inside edges of the arrow wells. A good shop vac will get most of the covering dust off of the wiring and I/O boards with very little to no contact, although the I/O boards are fairly sturdy so don't panic over a little bump unless you knock a cap loose E13.gif

In response to why you would take the glass off, video game monitors get EXTREMELY dirty over time. Taking the glass off and cleaning the picture tube and the backside of the glass is necessary to keep the sharpness in your image. There is no need to turn the game off for this. All of your voltage is on the backside of the monitor running through the thick wire that looks like a spark plug wire. It runs from something that looks similar to an automobile distributor cap, except with only one or two wires coming out of it (called the flyback transformer) to the monitor, where it ends in what looks like a suction cup. Around the flyback transformer is fairly safe, but there are metal leads under the suction cup that plug into the picture tube. Those leads are the most dangerous part of any arcade game (usually) and you WILL know it if you touch them and there is still a charge in teh tube E13.gif



Damage
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
Yeehaw McKickass
Contributor
Contributor


Joined: 06 Oct 2002
Location: Chicago Area
39. PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damage, it sounds like your pads were pretty nasty. I generally leave that middle plate on, and just use a smaller flathead screwdriver to wedge the dirt out. Doesn't do any damage to anything unless you're a twitcap and jab the driver through the sensor. Also, make sure you clean ALL sides of the arrows, they get nasty.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger
Display posts from previous:   
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> DDR Chit-Chat All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, ... 20, 21, 22  Next
Page 2 of 22

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB 2 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group