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Best way to dismantle a TX2000?
 
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sack man 64
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0. PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:55 am    Post subject: Best way to dismantle a TX2000? Reply with quote

The bottom arrow on mine is dead. It's not to do with the foil, as putting the two wires together still doesn't activate the button. I can only assume somewhere inside the mat is a lose wire for the bottom arrow. I tried last weekend to take it apart from the top, but failed due to the razor sharp edges and the fact the metalis bent over by a machine (i assume). Plus it looks like the base is solid with glued and nailed wood. So whats the best way to get inside the thing to fix it?
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Devon
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1. PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a horrible pad, don't even bother. The only good way to dismantle it is to smash it to pieces.
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infamous360
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2. PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devon wrote:
smash it to pieces.


ah beat me too it =(
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sack man 64
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3. PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, real helpful guys. I've had no problems for two years with this mat, now i assume a joint is gone, which happens in lots of electronics and i rather a little bit of help than trolling.
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slvrshdw
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4. PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, the TX style of pads are damn near impossible to take apart to fix.

even if you did take it apart, you would have a hell of hard time to get it back together, if you even could.

so, you could always try, but always be wary that it probably wont go back together
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FutureMax Europe
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5. PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi ..
you can find a manual to open the TX2000 at
http://www.ddrnl.com/artikelen.php

take the "how to repair TX2000" PDF file ..
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sack man 64
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6. PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thank you, that's perfect and should save a lot of time taking it apart!
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sack man 64
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7. PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having opened it, it doesn't look like the wires are borken as their connections are pretty tight. I'm thinking it may be the control box, i managed to find a pinout of the control box and the two that go to the back arrow show no voltage on them. Opening it up i can't see anything wrong so don't know 100% if it's the control box. I've ordered another one, so if that doesn't work it'll be the wires inside the mat that are the problem.

I just wish i still had the PS2 box, cos at least i could test it with that frown.gif
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ChilliumBromide
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8. PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devon wrote:
It's a horrible pad, don't even bother. The only good way to dismantle it is to smash it to pieces.
Hi. Stop posting on BC until you know what you're talking about. I have a friend who SDG'd or AAA'd every song on every home version including Japanese prior to SuperNOVA on a tx1000. Then it broke and he got a Cobalt Flux, which, FYI, he's AAA'd a handful of 10's on. Stop bashing every pad anyone mentions when you have no experience with any of them. kthx

Sackman, good luck with the new CB. If that doesn't fix it, I'd be willing to bet it's a wire going under a bar (the frame has little metal bars that go through the center of the pad) that's been roughed up so much that it split.
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Ghettobarney
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9. PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you're at it I recommend you sheet metal mod it.
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sack man 64
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10. PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back again, i got a new control box. Didn't fix the problem. So it's not that. So out came the wire cutters and multimeter. After cutting the end off (with the pc controller bit) i got to work. The actual connector is fine it seems, but somewhere along the long black bundle of wires is a break as the current will not go through all the way to the end.

Now to fix this i will have to get a new pc connector bit (easy and cheap) a bundle of wires...im sure i can get them easily...and then solder it all together. I think the only reason there is a break is due to how fine the wires are which is a shame, as everything else about the mat (apart from taking it apart) seems extreamly well made. Everything is glued together to make sure a joint cant become dry etc. Although it means fixing it is twice as hard as i've had to cut everything away and burn the glue off as best i can.

I'll let you know the results when i actually fix it, which should be a success, it's hardly a major bit of wiring and not circuit boards have gone.

I may look at sheet metalling it, so far the connections are fine but why not biggrin.gif
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Devon
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11. PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Stop bashing every pad anyone mentions when you have no experience with any of them. kthx


rofl, lets see here, I have 3 cobalt fluxes, 1 TX, 3 ignition pads, and 7 softpads, so please, don't try to act like you know what you're talking about.

oh, and FYI, I also have a nice amount of 10 foot AAA's, So i'm very capable of realizing which pad is good or not.

kthx
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ChilliumBromide
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12. PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devon wrote:
DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Stop bashing every pad anyone mentions when you have no experience with any of them. kthx


rofl, lets see here, I have 3 cobalt fluxes, 1 TX, 3 ignition pads, and 7 softpads, so please, don't try to act like you know what you're talking about.

oh, and FYI, I also have a nice amount of 10 foot AAA's, So i'm very capable of realizing which pad is good or not.

kthx
Fantastic, so you're just generically full of shit. Good to know.

Actually, that explains a lot, but I have this little secret for you:
Most people can't afford to drop $300 on a real pad. A $150 TX still curbstomps the crap out of a $30 softpad though, so while it might not be the sharpest tool in the shack, it's still not just a lump of scrap wood. (and a little metal)

But something tells me that you're probably aware of that too, and really just said what you did for the sake of trolling, so I guess that telling you off isn't going to do me any good. :/

You know, screw it, just please try to be more helpful if you're going to respond to an unsolved problem.
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That guy with the afro...
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13. PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Devon wrote:
DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Stop bashing every pad anyone mentions when you have no experience with any of them. kthx


rofl, lets see here, I have 3 cobalt fluxes, 1 TX, 3 ignition pads, and 7 softpads, so please, don't try to act like you know what you're talking about.

oh, and FYI, I also have a nice amount of 10 foot AAA's, So i'm very capable of realizing which pad is good or not.

kthx
Fantastic, so you're just generically full of shit. Good to know.


I'm not picking sides here or anything, but how would you know that?
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Discoman
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14. PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's just generally shit. I know his track record. And he just got banned for his second and last time.
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Ghettobarney
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15. PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol. Yeah and if you really want to make your TX last then you could cut some new panels made of lexan. Then you could build a custom base from wood, or perhaps add a bar and then hack a regular PS controller and.... oh wait I'm talking about building a homemade pad E10.gif
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